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Convento do Espinheiro, Portugal: A Historic Hotel with a Story to Tell

August 27, 2024 by Lucy Thackray No Comments
Convento do Espinheiro Portugal

Among the many high-end touches to Luxury Gold’s journeys, from fine dining to ultimate-access cultural experiences, guests can expect to stay in exceptional hotels. In Portugal’s untapped Alentejo region, in the central part of the country, this might look like staying at an enchanting convent – now a luxury hotel – with roots as far back as the 1300s AD.

Convento do Espinheiro in Evora, Portugal, was for centuries the home of monks belonging to the order of St Jeronimo. Now it welcomes culturally curious guests, who can tour its labyrinthine, whitewashed chapels, explore idyllic grounds and gardens and even eat in the monks’ old cafeteria. Guests will enjoy a stay here on Day 10 of our Spain & Portugal in Style journey. Concierge Ricardo walks us through some of the highlights.

 

Convento do Espinheiro Portugal

The cloisters at Convento do Espinheiro Portugal

It started with a vision

“The spiritual origins of the church of Our Lady of Espinheiro date back at least to the 14th century,” explains Ricardo. “In the small chapel where the main altar is found, were documents that prove the existence of a religious cult here since 1365. Legend has it that, years before this, a shepherd had seen an image of Our Lady above a thorn bush (‘espinheiro’) here, which was on fire but not consumed by the flames – it’s reminiscent of the archetype of the burning bush, which Moses found in the desert. 

“Convento do Espinheiro was founded with the authorization of the Pope in 1457, and handed over to the monks of the order of St Jerome. A religious community of 12 monks settled here on 2 September 1458, once the physical works on the monastery were complete.”

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Exquisite chapels

“The church is rich in works of art, especially in the side and main chapels,” ays Ricardo. “As well as the paintings, many by Frei Carlos – a Flemish monk who professed here – the church is also rich in azulejo tile panels, which tell the life story of St Jerome. In the Capela do Senhor Morto, you’ll see some empty frames, which once held paintings by Frei Carlos which were sacked during the French invasions.

The main chapel at Convento do Espinheiro Hotel

“The choir loft was where the monks gathered to sing psalms, and beside it is the organ – one of the most magnificent pieces in the Alentejo region. It was produced by the famous Italian organ maker Pascoal Oldovino around 1757. The same year, an agreement was made with the monks: annual payments in exchange for an organ concert before community festivities. The payment was 20 bushels of wheat each August, a pig and a cartload of firewood.”

We also think you’ll like: These Hotels Put a Five-Star Spin on Peruvian History

The monks’ refectory

“Here the two most awaited feasts were held annually, on Ascension Day and 29 September, the day of the patron saint Jerome. A cook was hired especially for these occasions, fresh fish and shellfish were ordered from the port of Sesimbra, and the best chickens and game killed and prepared. Desserts were prepared using plenty of eggs and sugar. These days were exceptional, because the monks mainly lived by the rule of abstinence.

 

 The monk's refectory turned dining room

 

“Taking a tour of Convento do Espinheiro’s kitchens today, you can see the great chimney where all of the ingredients were cooked, especially beef. This is one of the best-preserved 16th-century monastic kitchens in all of the country, and its vault is one of a kind. It has a bread-baking oven where our guests still witness the tradition of Alentejo baking.”

We also think you’ll like: Timeless Charm: A Guide to Lisbon’s Most Famed Historic Hotels

 

A very royal scandal

Portugal’s historic royalty and noblemen have stories bound up in Convento do Espinheiro, too, Ricardo explains. “Not only the Portuguese royal family, but also many noble families are buried here, as was their wish. You can explore the chapel of Garcia de Resende, [a great poet and storyteller in Portugal] who designed his own tomb here before his death in 1536. 

“Spain’s Princess Isabella of Aragon also spent a night at the Convento after she was brought to Portugal to marry the country’s Prince Afonso. On the eve of the royal wedding, the princess was visited by a party from the Portuguese royal court – or so writes Garcia de Resende. He tells us that the bride and groom met in her room at the convent, and on the same night a storm caused one of the building’s battlements to fall onto the roof of the couple’s room  – a sign of displeasure from the heavens. The monks immediately took this as a sign of misfortune. A few months later the prince was actually killed as the result of a fall from his horse in the Santarem region.”

 

Touring the building

During a stay here, a historic tour from in-the-know staff will give you a fascinating overview of the historic golden era of this monastery. A guided tour by one of the hotel’s concierges is included in your stay, available at 5.30pm each evening. “In the ancient cistern, we see King John II’s coat of arms above the door, under the vaulted ceiling, as well as a pelican which was his personal symbol. The construction of a water cistern was one of the first works done in the monastery. 

The pool at the Hotel Convento do Espinheiro

The gardens are also a highlight, says Ricardo. “The convent’s estate is a vast area of grounds with extensive farmlands and olive groves – one of them over 1,000 years old. It has witnessed a great amount of history and still produces olives. We annually pick the olives from which our olive oil is made.” Even the ancient cellar is utilised. “The monks’ ancient cellar is where wine and olive oil were produced and stored in large clay pots like the ones found here. Today it is our main restaurant, Divinus, where the delicious flavors of Alentejo gastronomy may be savored.”

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Latin America, Luxury Journeys, Make Travel Matter

These Hotels Put a Five-Star Spin on Peruvian History

July 4, 2024 by Lucy Thackray No Comments
Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo hotel

You may know it as the ancient land of the Incas, but much of the culture and heritage of Peru – arguably South America’s top bucket-list destination – is shrouded in mystery. One way to tap into the rest of Peruvian history and culture is to stay at one of the country’s most authentic lodges, hotels that wear their conservation of tradition as a badge of honor. 

Two of the most committed properties are Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo, near the Incan citadel of the same name (the epicentre of Peruvian history), and Palacio del Inka in Cusco. Guests on Luxury Gold’s in-depth Treasures of the Incas tour will get the chance to stay a leisurely two nights at each property, each stay a chance to really get under the skin of Peruvian culture. Atmospheric and filled with local detail, each property aims to conserve Peruvian history and educate their guests on how people lived, then and now. Here’s what you can expect from a stay.

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo hotel

The walkway at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo

Finding the Lost City

Inkaterra’s founders championed ecotourism long before it was a travel buzzword. Starting with a lodge in the Amazon rainforest, José Koechlin von Stein then opened the brand’s Machu Picchu property in the 1990s, determined to hire local people, assess and protect local wildlife and biodiversity, and create a captivating experience for guests visiting the Incan citadel.

The feeling of stepping back in time starts on arrival. Styled like a traditional Andean mountain village of 83 casitas, the hotel is tucked into 12.3 acres of pristine cloud forest. Rooms with private terraces and plunge pools have little touches such as fireplaces, cotton robes and Andean slippers crafted from recycled materials. In the authentic Unu Spa (meaning “water” in the native Quechua language), only 100% natural ingredients are used; Andean species including mint, eucalyptus and orchids are used to tap into traditional cures and therapies used throughout Peruvian history. After a day seeing the archaeological site, you can retreat to the Andean Sauna, a small, thatched mound heated by warmed river stones and infused with eucalyptus. 

Rustic interiors at the Inkaterra Machu Picchu lodge

Rustic interiors at the Inkaterra Machu Picchu lodge

On top of this, Inkaterra Cafe is working on reclaiming Peru’s pre-Hispanic cuisines, and the property has a programme to rescue the country’s beloved Spectacled Bears (that’s Paddington to you and me). Working with the Peruvian National Institute of Natural Resources (INRENA), Inkaterra hotel group works to rehabilitate some of these bears – South America’s only bear species – who have been negatively impacted by human communities, and release them into the wild. They can also be sighted occasionally in the countryside around the Machu Picchu lodge.

Excursions to Machu Picchu itself are a must-do, of course; but other excursions include getting to know the local orchids (Inkaterra has a garden of some 372 species. Local festivals like August’s Pachamama are marked by shaman-led ceremonies where guests are encouraged to join in.

We also think you’ll like: Embrace The Spirituality of The Incas in Peru’s Sacred Valley

A historic courtyard at Palacio del Inka, Cusco

A historic courtyard at Palacio del Inka, Cusco

Palace of the Incas

The traditional feel starts with the facade of this 500-year-old building, a listed landmark which was once the home of Francisco Pizarro, Peru’s first Spanish governor. It also sits across from Cusco’s Qoricancha (Temple of the Sun), built around the year 1200. Decor here is more focused on Peru’s Spanish-colonial history, from gilded columns, polished antique furniture, valuable mirrors and vases decorating rooms and halls to lavish painted tiling above beds, arches and courtyards in the architecture. Opulent oil paintings are collected from the Cusqueña Art School, prominent in Peruvian history. Request a suite in the Casona de los Cuatro Bustos area of the building to stay in what was once the 15th-century residence.

But the Spirit Spa here puts the hotel firmly in the Peruvian Andes, with indigenous treatments dating back hundreds of years. From a grape-skin bath that takes advantage of the antioxidants in the fruit to an Inca-style mud wrap, they range from rustic to deluxe (the gold-leaf-infused Temple of the Sun treatment). Parts of an ancient Incan wall also run through the hotel’s Rumi Bar – ask staff for the full history. Daily guided tours of the Palacio can enlighten you as to the historic significance of each part of the building and grounds.

The restaurant at Palacio del Inka

The restaurant at Palacio del Inka

In terms of food, Inti Raymi restaurant is a whirlwind through Peruvian culinary history, from zingy ceviche to grilled alpaca, and Pisco sours served in terracotta tumblers with an array of local botanical seasonings. One real highlight is the hotel’s own Pisco sour masterclass, where expert mixologists will talk you through the local spirit, made from fermented grape juice, and how it interweaves with Peruvian history, as well as how to mix the perfect pour.

Even the Palacio’s location puts you right at the heart of the Sacred Valley’s history, with the colonial architecture of Plaza de Armas all around, and shops selling traditional handicrafts to take home (the hotel concierge can point you in the right direction). The city’s cathedral, its Inka Museum and Saqsaywaman archaeological site should all be on your to-do list.

We also think you’ll like: Inside the home and studio of Peru’s most famous sculptor, Victor Delfin

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Europe, Luxury Journeys

After-Hours at the Little Museum of Dublin with Author Trevor White

March 15, 2024 by Luxury Gold No Comments
Image of Dublin's River Liffey photographed from a high

For Dubliner Trevor White, accomplished author and founder and curator of Dublin’s award-winning Little Museum, there’s no place quite like this effervescent and welcoming city. From the generosity of its people to the richness of its history, a visit to Dublin will leave a fond memory etched on your soul. And, just ahead of St Patrick’s Day, this is the perfect reason to throw a spotlight on the Emerald Isle.

Travel with us on our Ultimate Ireland small group journey and enjoy an exclusive VIP invitation to meet with Trevor in Dublin, for a personal after-hours tour of Little Museum, which he founded. Here you will find history, humor and a warm Irish welcome as you learn about the city, his work and what it means to be a Dubliner.

We had the privilege to speak with Trevor to ask him more about The Little Museum, his life as a Dubliner and to get some expert Dublin local tips.

 

The Little Museum

Trevor White and Minister for Tourism, Culture, Arts, Gaeltacht, Sport and Media Catherine Martin, photographed inside the Little Museum

Photo credit: @littlemuseumdub on Instagram

Known as the “people’s museum of the capital”, the Little Museum is housed in an 18th century townhouse in the beautiful setting of Dublin’s St Stephens Green. “The Little Museum is Dublin, bottled,” explains Trevor. “Our work is about building civic pride; documenting the past; making guests feel welcome; kindling memories, tears and laughter; and, ultimately, bringing people to a closer understanding of who they really are.“

When asked what makes the Little Museum so special, he tells us, “Ordinary citizens are responsible for the success of the institution, because our collection was created by public donation. Philanthropists, patrons and the Irish government have also been generous supporters. There are over 5,000 artefacts which have been donated by Dubliners at home and overseas, and together they allow us to tell the stories of the city.”

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Small things tell big stories

A display of tennis balls tells at the Little Museum

Photo credit: @littlemuseumdub on Instagram

Trevor tells us “In the Little Museum we use small things to tell big stories, such as the shutter with a bullethole from the Easter Rising, or the letter from 20-year-old James Joyce, asking Lady Gregory for money. Some of the highlights are more commonplace. My favorite artefact at the moment is a collection of tennis balls discarded by the dogs of Dún Laoghaire.” It was a rite of passage for many Dublin kids growing up to head to this coastal suburb for a “Teddy’s 99 ice cream (cone with a flake) and a walk on the pier.”

A charming item in the collection is a letter that John F Kennedy wrote in 1963, rather poignantly in the year that he was assassinated. Donated to the Little Museum by its owner, the letter was sent in reply to a little boy who wrote to ask the US President whether fairies only appear to Irish people. President Kennedy took the trouble to write quite a long response to this child to say that fairies appear to all those who believe in them.

“This artefact is a really sweet thing that speaks to political history and also has a very human flavor to it. It shows an intimate side of this very public figure’s personality.” Trevor explains.

If you love VIP, you’ll be interested to read: After Hours: Travel Like a VIP With These Exclusive Experiences

 

A Dublin welcome for everyone

The entrance to the Little Museum of Dublin

Photo credit: @littlemuseumdub on Instagram

We asked Trevor how the idea for the Museum initially came about. “I spent my career writing about Dublin and have a deep love for the city,” he says. “I published a magazine called The Dubliner for many years and sold it in 2008. I spent some time traveling but needed a new challenge.”

“I was in a Dublin pub one night with a friend we fell into conversation with an Australian. We bought him a pint which is a very Irish thing to do, shared stories and told him the best things to do in Dublin. At the end of the evening my friend and I reflected that it was a really positive and rewarding experience.

“That night I bounded home to my wife, woke her up and enthusiastically told her that I was going to set up a greeter programme and open a museum of Dublin and we were going to welcome people from all over the world,” he recounts, “and she simply asked me if I had remembered to put the bins out!””

From that small seed the Little Museum was born. In its first year it had 25,000 visitors and in 2019 it had 120,000. The Museum has grown and has built an extraordinary collection, which Trevor tells us “Is a true reflection of the generosity of the people of this city. Dubliners have a big heart. There’s a huge warmth and generosity and hospitality in this city and we try to embody that in the museum.”

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For the love of entertainment

“It is such a privilege to be able to extend hospitality to Luxury Gold guests,” he continues, “to join over a glass of wine or bubbles and have the opportunity to tell people about our work. Guests look forward to a warm welcome when they come to Ireland. The museums home was designed in the 18th century to enable its owner to host and entertain guests. We are very proud to have brought our townhouse back to its original purpose. These magnificent drawing rooms are not designed for intimate conversations, they are designed for entertaining on a grand scale and as such it is such a pleasure to be able to share such a building with visitors from all over the world.”

For the museum lover: These Spanish Museums House the Country’s Most Exquisite Artworks

History, hospitality and humor

“There are three themes to our work in the museum” Trevor elaborates. “History, that is our subject, the history of Dublin and Dubliners. Hospitality, which is such a hugely important part of what we are doing on the museum and why it is such an honor to welcome guests from over the world. And thirdly, humor. When you ask what is it that makes the Irish Irish, conversation is a big part of our character and way of life. We try to embody that within the museum which is why all of our visitors are able capture the salty humor of Dublin itself,” he explains with a laugh.

Bookmark for later: These Hotels and Experiences Echo Old-World Glamor

In the footsteps of literary greats

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by The Little Museum of Dublin (@littlemuseumdub)

Trevor is a former restaurant critic, publisher of The Dubliner, and author of five books, including The Dubliner Diaries. Of being a Dublin writer, he tells us “I am certainly conscious of the great literary tradition of the city.” Dublin boasts James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, Bram Stoker and W B Yeats amongst its esteemed stable of authors. “Anyone who writes anything in this town feels the weight of history on their shoulders,” Trevor admits. “In one sense it is a burden, but it is also a privilege to have grown up in a society where literature is taken seriously.”

“I am just finishing a concise history of Dublin to be published in the spring of 2023, hopefully to be ready in time to share with Luxury Gold guests,” he shares with us. “The whole purpose of this book is to provide a very lithe overview of the history of Dublin for visitors. So somebody coming to Dublin who knows nothing about it, a curious visitor, could sit down for a couple of hours and ingest the whole story.”

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Europe’s biggest village

Renowned for its vibrant, friendly atmosphere and rich history, Dublin is a city with much to offer every traveler. Described by Dubliner Trevor as “Europe’s biggest village,” we asked him to elaborate on this.  He tells us “What I am really talking about is the intimacy of this city.”

“Dublin is a small, easily navigable city. You can explore Dublin in a couple of hours, and that intimacy is part of its charm. The phrase Europe’s biggest village also references the gift for conversation that Irish people, an intimacy that visitors will experience first-hand.”

“When people come to Dublin, the first thing I tell them to do is go to a local pub. You will meet Irish people, and what will inevitably happen is that you will find yourself in conversation with a really good storyteller. That is one of the most distinctive and likable aspects of life in this city. And the city is full of gorgeous pubs.”

You Amy also enjoy reading: Luxury Travel Secrets: How to Talk to a Sommelier

A cultural haven

Art exhibit at Ireland’s National Gallery

Photo credit: @nationalgalleryofireland on Instagram

As well as a visit to the pub, Trevor advises any visitor to Dublin to spend time at the city’s national cultural institutions, of which there are many. “The National Gallery of Ireland, recently refurbished, in the center of the city, offers treasures galore, with everyone from W.B. Yeats to Pablo Picasso represented in their extraordinary collection” he says. A visit to the National Library is also one of the memorable things to do in Dublin.”

“Dublin is big on theatre and is blessed with two world class institutions,” Trevor enthuses. “Our national theatre, the Abbey Theatre was set up by William B Yeats, the great Nobel prize winning poet and you are guaranteed to see a memorable production. And the Gate Theatre, where Orson Wells started his career as an actor before he went on to make Citizen Kane. It has a very storied history and offers world class theater for a fraction of the price of Broadway and the West End.”

For travel inspiration: Peak Performance: The Best Train Rides in Switzerland

 

Delicious cuisine

Photo credit: @chapteronebymikaelviljanen on Instagram

As a former restaurant critic, we just had to ask Trevor for his best places to eat in Dublin and he suggested four great ways to taste the city:

Etto – an excellent Italian European restaurant which serves wonderful food with a great, fun atmosphere.

Glovers Alley – fine dining in a spectacular setting overlooking St Stephens Green.

Chapter One – Michelin starred dining offering real Irish hospitality and an extremely accomplished chef.

Roly’s Bistro – very buzzy with a delicious menu.

To experience this exclusive VIP after-hours meeting with Dubliner Trevor White at The Little Museum, book onto our Ultimate Ireland luxury guided tour.

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