As a lifelong Londoner, one of the things I love most about the city is that – truly – you can wear what you like. This is the city of diversity, self-expression and creativity – be who you are and feel good doing it. So, why does it feel so easy to get it wrong? Possibly because it’s also the city of the poorly ventilated London Underground, relentless drizzle, and long, uneven walks. And because it’s English. Which means you never know when a unexpected Anglicism is going to catch you unawares. Let’s get into some of the nuances that dictate precisely what to wear to dinner in London. We’ll finish with some dos and don’ts.

How to Dress For Dinner in London:

Dress codes

 If we start by turning our attention to some of the older, classic restaurants, what do we learn? At Claridge’s, “we do not operate any dress code, however we find most of our guests choose smart casual dress”. At The Ritz, “gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie” in the main restaurant, while “shorts, trainers and sportswear are not permitted in any of the hotel’s restaurants or bars”. At Rules, “whilst jacket or tie are not required, we prefer smart dress”.

In a lot of ways, these are the easy ones. You probably wouldn’t even consult the dress code before taking afternoon tea at the Ritz, you’d just know you were embarking on something luxe, and you’d want to dress accordingly. The direction that luxury takes you in is really up to you.

Buttoned up pockets:

 There are some pockets of the city that take dress codes more seriously. For instance, there was a “tightening up” of the dress code at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea recently. It now reads:

“We would like all of our guests to feel free to express their own individual style however, we do ask guests to avoid shorts, tracksuits, hoodies and hats. Smart trainers are fine. We know lots of our guests like to dress smartly which we appreciate. Ultimately we want every guest to feel at home.”

I appreciate the distinction between “smart trainers” and the ones you wear to the gym, or “sportswear”. I think it’s important to know that comfort counts for a lot in London, and you know the difference between one sneaker and another.

Even restaurants frequented by royalty have a smart-casual policy these days, though in these corners of London (Mayfair, Kensington), they can have their own ideas about what that actually means – some state that they prefer a jacket over a shirt, some specify “tailored shorts” – but these are few and far between.

Feeling fancy

In fact the reality is that most high end restaurants in London are so relaxed about clothes, you might want to seek out some addressed that are special enough to flex your fanciest looks. If you’re looking for restaurants with stunning surrounds, consider Berners Tavern for glamorous chandeliers and cornicing to befit a stately home, Bob Bob Ricard for pie and champagne in sumptuous booths, The Dover for seventies Sophia Loren-style splendour or Booking Office 1869 for vast interiors and indoor palm trees.

Dining in London: Dos and Don’ts

Dos:

Black

There is no need to wear black if you usually don’t. But if you own a chic black jacket, dress or pair of pants that makes you feel fabulous, consider it the key to your capsule wardrobe. You can go in any direction you please from there.

 A good coat (or jacket, or indeed shacket)

If your restaurant manager is kind enough to help you slip your coat from your shoulders on to a hanger, you want to feel really good watching it disappear into the closet. In London, for obvious reasons, you cannot underestimate the power of a good coat – it almost doesn’t matter what’s underneath.

Comfy shoes

As we’ve established, even Claridge’s wants you to feel at home. Nothing mars an unforgettable meal like a pair of blisters. Wear the good trainers, or the boots you know like the back of your … foot.

 A woollen jumper

When autumn arrives, knitwear is practically a sport in London. Whether it’s a classic navy cashmere number, or a bright, oversize piece, wearing a jumper you love is the cosiest way to express yourself, and to feel fully ensconced at the table.

Don’ts:

Grey

I’m sure Stanley Tucci could pull it off, but we don’t need to try. If there’s one thing we have enough of here, it’s grey – in the sky and in the hue of people’s sun-deprived skin as winter prattles on. Please consider Londoners by leaving your grey suits at home. 

Tiny umbrellas

I’ve lost more of those soggy minis under restaurant tables than I can bear to think about, but I have a big, gold leopard print (hard to miss) one that’s been with me for almost 10 years.

Worry

You will not “look like a tourist” – there is no such thing here. Even the classic look (cycling shorts, baggy souvenir t-shirt, socks and trainers) looks great in the right establishment (not one that hates sportswear). And everyone is using Google Maps to navigate Soho (although when in Rome – or London – Citymapper is the preferred app of choice).

Overthink

Londoners can smell outfit insecurity a mile off. You just pulled this old thing out of the suitcase and threw it on – right? 

What about Crocs and flops?

One has to operate some discretion when it comes to open toes and so forth. It’s a no to your old Havaianas, a yes to your key lime platform Crocs. But that’s just common sense.

There’s something so indulgent about dialling down for room service – staying comfy in your suite, perhaps even in a fluffy bathrobe, reclining in style and waiting for that knock from your server. But what are the rules, and are there things to watch out for? We asked one anonymous industry mole from a five-star hotel for their ultimate room service etiquette tips: any dos and don’ts that will help you get the best out of that luxury tray service. Here’s our ultimate guide for approaching room service etiquette like an insider.

Don’t order when you’re already ravenous

“Twenty to thirty minutes is a typical wait for room service. But at peak times, in big hotels, catering teams reserve the right to take up to an hour to get your food to you. Call down with your order well before you want it to arrive, or you’ll just end up frustrated and hungry.”

Do wear whatever you like

“Is there room service etiquette when it comes to clothing? It’s not uncommon for guests to greet their tray delivery in a bathrobe, pyjamas or sweaty post-gym outfit – trust me, our servers have seen it all. Their job is just to get the tray to you and get that bill signed. The only real ‘don’t’ here would be answering the door undressed or in underwear; a bathrobe won’t make your server uncomfortable, but your underwear might!”

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Breakfast is overrated

“The biggest error I see guests make is ordering eggs for breakfast up to their room. While it’s wonderful to have a lie-in while you wait for your food, eggs simply don’t travel – the scrambled eggs get hard and cold, poached yolks solidify and every style of egg is just so much better fresh from the breakfast buffet station. Coffee can get weaker and colder on the tray, too. As breakfast is far and away the most popular mealtime for room service orders, this is also the order most likely to take a long time. When I’m staying at a hotel, I go down to the restaurant for breakfast.”

The club sandwich is a room service classic for a reason

There are some failsafe room service winners

“You can rarely go wrong with a club sandwich and fries on room service. Not only is it a classic that’s usually been on room service menus for years (and so been perfected), it’s something that travels well and can be jazzed up with condiments. Other failsafe stars of the room service menu include burgers and pasta dishes. Look out for what’s on the 24-hour, usually shorter room service menu – those are the perennial classics we’re confident we can get right any time of day – and what kind of cuisine is served in the main restaurants. If there’s a well-regarded Japanese restaurant onsite, the sushi platters should be just as good delivered to your room.”

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Know your tips

“As with any kind of food and beverage tipping, room service etiquette for a tip will vary from place to place. In the US, 18%-20% of the room service bill is standard; in most hotels in major cities, a 12-15% service or ‘tray’ charge will be included on your bill. In the rare cases or farther-flung countries where this isn’t the case, rounding up to the nearest 10 or adding on $5 or so’s worth as a tip will be acceptable.”

Want something not on the menu? Just ask

“Most hotels will only bring you what’s on the menu, but if you have a hankering for something simple – a grilled cheese sandwich, say, or a simple tomato salad – that’s not on there, it’s worth asking. It’s not necessarily breaking room service etiquette to ask for a green juice on an uninspiring drinks menu, or for a side of potatoes you don’t see listed in print. Especially in more high end hotels, food and beverage managers will go out of their way to accommodate you.”

Don’t fret about answering the door in your bathrobe (Unsplash/Getty)

Your tray shouldn’t feel stale

“In a poor room service setting, the pitfalls will be obvious: your eggs will be cold, your coffee may have a layer of film across the top, or the contents of the plate may have slid sideways in transit. Hotels with a strong grasp of their room service offering will be able to deliver your food hot, fresh and unspoiled – so don’t be afraid to call down and ask for a replacement item or dish. Consider that you’re paying extra for the tray service: you want the food to be worth the wait.”

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Be specific

“If you’re a foodie who knows what you like, it pays to be specific. Want that morning coffee to be a machine espresso with a little hot water, not a weaker pot of filter coffee? Say as much when you call in your order. Want ketchup and mayo with that side of fries? Ask specifically, just in case. Whether it’s dressing on the side of a salad or freshly-squeezed OJ, not carton, we’d rather know in advance and get it right first time than risk the dreaded complaint call afterwards.”

What to do when you’re finished

“The universal sign for ‘I’m done with my tray’ is to put it just outside of your hotel door, on the floor – that’s why you’re frequently tripping over people’s trays and champagne buckets in hotel corridors. However, if you don’t want to lug the tray outside, it’s just as acceptable in the world of room service etiquette to call down and say your tray is ready to collect. A member of the F&B team will be up reasonably promptly.”

Keen, cultured visitors to Stockholm will almost certainly have Fotografiska on their hit list. The museum, that is – one of the Swedish capital’s top sights, a temple to contemporary photography and an HQ for modern photographers and experts the world over. But not every visitor to the city knows that the building, a former Art Nouveau style customs house, also houses one of Sweden’s most sustainable restaurants. 

Known simply as “The Restaurant”, it’s helmed by the innovative, boundary-pushing Executive Chef Martin Wall. “My role here is as ‘planet keeper’,” says Wall. “I try to keep our philosophy forward-thinking and make sure we do as much as we can, sustainability wise”. Guests on Luxury Gold’s Timeless Scandinavia tour will visit this extraordinary sustainable restaurant during their time in Stockholm – in the meantime, we asked Martin to tell us a little about how he merges a luxury museum experience with a sustainable ethos.

“The Restaurant” Executive Chef Martin Wall

The Formula

“The Restaurant at Fotografiska is plant-forward,” explains Wall. “We try to push the boundaries and understand nature”. His team is on a mission, he says, to “prove that [sustainable restaurants] can be high-end gastronomy and sustainable at the same time”. With a firm zero-waste policy and seasonally-led ingredients, Wall’s team curates set menus of different sizes – three or five courses starting with an appetizer of the day, say – as well as sharp, unusual beverage pairings (one popular selection is “Nordic and funky”, featuring some excellent Scandinavan wines and ingredients). “We normally say that the farmers are the bosses of the restaurant. They decide what’s on the menu – we want the best, today, from nature,” adds Wall. Dishes might include blue mussels with seaweed and root vegetables, or lamb with cucumber, garlic and caramelised cream. It’s contemporary but appealing; the ingredients are the star of the show.

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A dish at The Restaurant at Fotografiska, Stockholm

The “S” Word

Though luxury travellers are more aware than ever before of the need to balance incredible travel experiences with an awareness of impact on the planet, Wall feels the very word “sustainability” has perhaps been overused, or lost some of its power in recent years. “Sustainable dining has been up and down since the pandemic,” he ponders. “I think the word [itself] is the big problem; it doesn’t have the same effect as before. So we’re more talking about ‘consciousness’: to be out there and to be aware of what’s going on, to try to keep pushing forward.”

What does that consciousness mean to him? “It’s important for us to be out there, to make people conscious of the world and to show them and guide them to a more sustainable way. It is possible to do it.” To be a thought leader among sustainable restaurants in the region, this could be through highlighting the best vegetables or foraged plants available that month on the menu, or getting creative with zero-waste principles. Initiatives involve using apple cores in desserts or converting onion peelings to compost to nurture future kitchen vegetables. 

The Restaurant at Fotografiska, Stockholm

Award-winning Dishes

The Restaurant at Fotografiska was awarded a Michelin Green Star in 2020, and has maintained it for every year since. “They introduced the Green Michelin star a few years ago,” says Wall. “It means we’re acknowledged for our sustainable work.” Venues are awarded these rare stamps of approval for having high ethical and environmental standards, from provenance to suppliers and employing locals, as well as combining culinary excellence with an eco ethos. The team’s forward thinking also won them three circles by the 360°Eat Guide. “The 360 Award is big here in the Nordic countries, but it’s all about social and planet-minded sustainability, so it’s a big award for us and we’re so proud to be in it.” While it’s a joy to receive accolades, says Wall, it can also place the burden on the team of keeping such a high standard. But he’s up for the challenge. “It’s a huge role to take on, to make sure you understand the planet the best to make the gastronomy line up with the future,” says Wall. “My plan is to [always] be a little bit better tomorrow than today.”

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The Experience

“When they come here, guests can expect to be ‘here and now’,” says Wall of the museum-restaurant space, which occupies a large-windowed, waterfront dining room with – naturally – great photography on the walls. “It’s not all about what’s on the plate – it’s why it’s on the plate.” Everything presented in sustainable restaurants like his, he says, should be centred around provenance, slow food, zero waste principles and great suppliers. It should represent how great cooking can be done in the age of sustainability.

It’s only when asked for his favourite dish of the moment that Wall pauses for thought. “That’s a tricky one. In Sweden right now, it’s been a long, hard winter, so the asparagus feels like the sun, and the future.” He wants guests to become more conscious of what sustainable restaurant can do, but in the moment, to rest and relax, and be completely present with the food in front of them. “We proudly present the way of the future, so you can calmly come here and wine and dine. We’ve been doing the thinking, so here’s the place where you can relax and enjoy – we’ve done the work for you,” he says.

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