For Dubliner Trevor White, accomplished author and founder and curator of Dublin’s award-winning Little Museum, there’s no place quite like this effervescent and welcoming city. From the generosity of its people to the richness of its history, a visit to Dublin will leave a fond memory etched on your soul. And, just ahead of St Patrick’s Day, this is the perfect reason to throw a spotlight on the Emerald Isle.

Travel with us on our Ultimate Ireland small group journey and enjoy an exclusive VIP invitation to meet with Trevor in Dublin, for a personal after-hours tour of Little Museum, which he founded. Here you will find history, humor and a warm Irish welcome as you learn about the city, his work and what it means to be a Dubliner.

We had the privilege to speak with Trevor to ask him more about The Little Museum, his life as a Dubliner and to get some expert Dublin local tips.

The Little Museum

Photo credit: @littlemuseumdub on Instagram

Known as the “people’s museum of the capital”, the Little Museum is housed in an 18^th century townhouse in the beautiful setting of Dublin’s St Stephens Green. “The Little Museum is Dublin, bottled,” explains Trevor. “Our work is about building civic pride; documenting the past; making guests feel welcome; kindling memories, tears and laughter; and, ultimately, bringing people to a closer understanding of who they really are.“

When asked what makes the Little Museum so special, he tells us, “Ordinary citizens are responsible for the success of the institution, because our collection was created by public donation. Philanthropists, patrons and the Irish government have also been generous supporters. There are over 5,000 artefacts which have been donated by Dubliners at home and overseas, and together they allow us to tell the stories of the city.”

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Small things tell big stories

Photo credit: @littlemuseumdub on Instagram

Trevor tells us “In the Little Museum we use small things to tell big stories, such as the shutter with a bullethole from the Easter Rising, or the letter from 20-year-old James Joyce, asking Lady Gregory for money. Some of the highlights are more commonplace. My favorite artefact at the moment is a collection of tennis balls discarded by the dogs of Dún Laoghaire.” It was a rite of passage for many Dublin kids growing up to head to this coastal suburb for a “Teddy’s 99 ice cream (cone with a flake) and a walk on the pier.”

A charming item in the collection is a letter that John F Kennedy wrote in 1963, rather poignantly in the year that he was assassinated. Donated to the Little Museum by its owner, the letter was sent in reply to a little boy who wrote to ask the US President whether fairies only appear to Irish people. President Kennedy took the trouble to write quite a long response to this child to say that fairies appear to all those who believe in them.

“This artefact is a really sweet thing that speaks to political history and also has a very human flavor to it. It shows an intimate side of this very public figure’s personality.” Trevor explains.

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A Dublin welcome for everyone

Photo credit: @littlemuseumdub on Instagram

We asked Trevor how the idea for the Museum initially came about. “I spent my career writing about Dublin and have a deep love for the city,” he says. “I published a magazine called The Dubliner for many years and sold it in 2008. I spent some time traveling but needed a new challenge.”

“I was in a Dublin pub one night with a friend we fell into conversation with an Australian. We bought him a pint which is a very Irish thing to do, shared stories and told him the best things to do in Dublin. At the end of the evening my friend and I reflected that it was a really positive and rewarding experience.

“That night I bounded home to my wife, woke her up and enthusiastically told her that I was going to set up a greeter programme and open a museum of Dublin and we were going to welcome people from all over the world,” he recounts, “and she simply asked me if I had remembered to put the bins out!””

From that small seed the Little Museum was born. In its first year it had 25,000 visitors and in 2019 it had 120,000. The Museum has grown and has built an extraordinary collection, which Trevor tells us “Is a true reflection of the generosity of the people of this city. Dubliners have a big heart. There’s a huge warmth and generosity and hospitality in this city and we try to embody that in the museum.”

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For the love of entertainment

“It is such a privilege to be able to extend hospitality to Luxury Gold guests,” he continues, “to join over a glass of wine or bubbles and have the opportunity to tell people about our work. Guests look forward to a warm welcome when they come to Ireland. The museums home was designed in the 18th century to enable its owner to host and entertain guests. We are very proud to have brought our townhouse back to its original purpose. These magnificent drawing rooms are not designed for intimate conversations, they are designed for entertaining on a grand scale and as such it is such a pleasure to be able to share such a building with visitors from all over the world.”

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History, hospitality and humor

“There are three themes to our work in the museum” Trevor elaborates. “History, that is our subject, the history of Dublin and Dubliners. Hospitality, which is such a hugely important part of what we are doing on the museum and why it is such an honor to welcome guests from over the world. And thirdly, humor. When you ask what is it that makes the Irish Irish, conversation is a big part of our character and way of life. We try to embody that within the museum which is why all of our visitors are able capture the salty humor of Dublin itself,” he explains with a laugh.

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In the footsteps of literary greats

 

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Trevor is a former restaurant critic, publisher of The Dubliner, and author of five books, including The Dubliner Diaries. Of being a Dublin writer, he tells us “I am certainly conscious of the great literary tradition of the city.” Dublin boasts James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, Bram Stoker and W B Yeats amongst its esteemed stable of authors. “Anyone who writes anything in this town feels the weight of history on their shoulders,” Trevor admits. “In one sense it is a burden, but it is also a privilege to have grown up in a society where literature is taken seriously.”

“I am just finishing a concise history of Dublin to be published in the spring of 2023, hopefully to be ready in time to share with Luxury Gold guests,” he shares with us. “The whole purpose of this book is to provide a very lithe overview of the history of Dublin for visitors. So somebody coming to Dublin who knows nothing about it, a curious visitor, could sit down for a couple of hours and ingest the whole story.”

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Europe’s biggest village

Renowned for its vibrant, friendly atmosphere and rich history, Dublin is a city with much to offer every traveler. Described by Dubliner Trevor as “Europe’s biggest village,” we asked him to elaborate on this.  He tells us “What I am really talking about is the intimacy of this city.”

“Dublin is a small, easily navigable city. You can explore Dublin in a couple of hours, and that intimacy is part of its charm. The phrase Europe’s biggest village also references the gift for conversation that Irish people, an intimacy that visitors will experience first-hand.”

“When people come to Dublin, the first thing I tell them to do is go to a local pub. You will meet Irish people, and what will inevitably happen is that you will find yourself in conversation with a really good storyteller. That is one of the most distinctive and likable aspects of life in this city. And the city is full of gorgeous pubs.”

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A cultural haven

Photo credit: @nationalgalleryofireland on Instagram

As well as a visit to the pub, Trevor advises any visitor to Dublin to spend time at the city’s national cultural institutions, of which there are many. “The National Gallery of Ireland, recently refurbished, in the center of the city, offers treasures galore, with everyone from W.B. Yeats to Pablo Picasso represented in their extraordinary collection” he says. A visit to the National Library is also one of the memorable things to do in Dublin.”

“Dublin is big on theatre and is blessed with two world class institutions,” Trevor enthuses. “Our national theatre, the Abbey Theatre was set up by William B Yeats, the great Nobel prize winning poet and you are guaranteed to see a memorable production. And the Gate Theatre, where Orson Wells started his career as an actor before he went on to make Citizen Kane. It has a very storied history and offers world class theater for a fraction of the price of Broadway and the West End.”

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Delicious cuisine

Photo credit: @chapteronebymikaelviljanen on Instagram

As a former restaurant critic, we just had to ask Trevor for his best places to eat in Dublin and he suggested four great ways to taste the city:

Etto – an excellent Italian European restaurant which serves wonderful food with a great, fun atmosphere.

Glovers Alley – fine dining in a spectacular setting overlooking St Stephens Green.

Chapter One – Michelin starred dining offering real Irish hospitality and an extremely accomplished chef.

Roly’s Bistro – very buzzy with a delicious menu.

To experience this exclusive VIP after-hours meeting with Dubliner Trevor White at The Little Museum, book onto our Ultimate Ireland luxury guided tour.

Rural Ireland may be most famous for its uninterrupted “Emerald Isle” greenery, but it’s even more of a pleasure to watch its leaves turn gold and amber. Among other forested spots, this spectrum of late autumn foliage is reflected most beautifully in Lough Corrib, the body of water at the foot of Ashford Castle, arguably Ireland’s best hotel and one of the most storied.  

This 800-year-old residence has a pleasing mix of outdoor living and cosy creature comforts that will suit your holiday mood as the season changes. This is a place where you can pull on a cashmere sweater for walks through the 350 acres of grounds, then dress up for dinner before a nightcap by the fireplace in the Prince of Wales Bar.  

While the hotel was recently named the fourth best in Europe (in the Conde Nast Traveller Reader’s Choice Awards, in the “Rest of Europe” category), it’s been a magnet for A-listers, leaders and trendsetters for more than a century: Oscar Wilde, King George V, John Lennon and Barbra Streisand have all stayed, whether in the building’s years as a private home or its subsequent life as a luxury hotel. Here’s how to enjoy this landmark hotel in the atmospheric holiday season months.  

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Outdoor pursuits

Credit: @ashfordcastle on Instagram

As well as heart-pumping walks through the lakeside, woodland and hills around the castle, guests visiting in late autumn can take full advantage of the cooler days to get out and about. Ashford is home to the oldest established falconry school in Ireland, where you’ll get to grips with these beautiful, huge-clawed birds of prey. Try the Hawk Walk experience, where you’ll embark on an atmospheric forest stroll with your own avine companion, giving them room to explore before swooping back to your gloved hand.  

Clay shooting and archery are both quintessential countryside experiences to acquaint you with your surroundings, while a lakeside cruise or fishing trip will get you out on the smooth, rippling waters of Lough Corrib, where the bronzed treetops frame a tranquil view as you cast your rod from a hand-crafted 19ft traditional wooden clinker.  

Equestrian types can enjoy Ireland’s best hotel on horseback. Saddle up with instructors or guides for lessons and trail rides, trotting out to the spectacular paths around the Lough, neighbouring woodland and into the mountains of Connemara to see the rural beauty of the county the way Ashford’s 19th-century guests did. 

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Sublime seasonal cuisine

Credit: @ashfordcastle on Instagram

Ornate wood panelling, Waterford crystal chandeliers and period fireplaces characterise the dining and drinking haunts at Ashford Castle. But the chef’s vision for your meals is entirely modern: seasonal, local Irish produce is the priority in the George V dining room, where you can graze your way through tangy St Tola goat’s cheese from County Clare, lobster from Rossaveel, 60km away, and lamb loin from Kinvara, just the other side of Galway. The real highlight for many is the restaurant’s signature 28-day-aged Chateaubriand and braised cheek, which is carved for two from a vintage-style chef’s trolley in front of you.  

Autumnal fare in Ashford’s restaurants might include woodland girolle mushrooms, a spiced pumpkin soup or gourmet takes on root vegetables such as parsnip and carrot. Meanwhile, chilly October or November mornings cry out for a Full Irish breakfast before you set off to explore: think sausages from Andarl Farm, 40km north of where you sit, plus sizzling Irish bacon, black and white pudding, mushroom, tomato and eggs to order.  What better way to stay the day at Ireland’s best hotel?

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Warming spa sessions  

Credit: @ashfordcastle on Instagram

After a day out on the Lough, with the falconry team or simply driving through County Mayo’s autumn foliage, an hour or three at the hotel’s world-class spa beckons. There’s a reason why this pampering palace has been named Ireland’s Best Spa for eight consecutive years at the World Spa Awards: as well as lavish interiors featuring chandeliers, lashings of gold and a striking Tree of Life mural, it has palatial treatment rooms with big-windowed views of the countryside, plus a hammam and relaxation pool.   

Keen walkers and jet-lagged long haulers can ease tense muscles with an aromatic massage using Voya seaweed products, where therapists tap into a long Irish tradition of using the coastal flora for healing and soothing purposes. Meanwhile a nourishing Natura Bissé facial will plump out dry skin after encounters with wind and rain, and an Ashford hammam session employs Atlantic salt and seaweed soap for an invigorating, inimitably Irish take on the Arabic spa tradition.  

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Oozing 1920’s glamour, the Hotel Esplanade Zagreb is a cultural historic icon of Croatia’s capital. The place to see and be seen, in the words of its General Manager Ivica Krizmanic, “If there’s one hotel in Croatia that everyone has heard about, it’s the Esplanade.”

We had the pleasure of speaking to Ivica, to learn more about what Luxury Gold guests can expect from a stay at the Esplanade, and discover what it is the secret to running such an exceptional hotel.

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Orient Express origins

“The reason why this caliber of hotel was first built in the city was due to the Orient Express, which was passing through Zagreb,” Ivica explains. “In the 1920s, it was necessary to have an exceptional five-star hotel to accommodate the train’s high-society passengers. The Esplanade hotel was built in two years, and it’s been something special from the first day it opened in 1925.”

Designed in the Art Deco style by architect Dionis Sunko the Hotel Esplanade Zagreb quickly became a symbol of luxury and elegance in the city. A full refurbishment in 2004 elevated the interiors and amenities to new heights. “We had a great architect and interior designer who ensured that the Esplanade spirit stayed intact,” says Ivica. “The design really blended together the history with the modern design from today’s era.”

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It’s all about love and passion

“My father actually worked here before me, for 30 years. He’s the reason why I am here,” Ivica tells us. “In 1992, as a student, he asked me to help out. It was just for a month as a doorman, because they needed some extra staff, and that is where it all began. I was immediately in love with the hotel and have been here ever since.

“For me, the secret to running such an exceptional hotel is love and passion. This is something that it’s necessary to have for the Esplanade because the hotel deserves people who are dedicated to the Esplanade spirit. For all of us here, this is not just a hotel, this is more of an institution. So, for us to work here is something much bigger.

“The Esplanade is a synonym for luxury and good service. People widely connect the hotel with something special. Numerous times I have been in other establishments and have overheard people say (maybe in response to a complaint) ‘you know this is not the Esplanade, Sir.’ It sets the standard.”

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Exquisite rooms

With its 208 rooms and suites, offering stunning views of the city, keeping everything running perfectly at the hotel Esplanade Zagreb is no small task. When we ask how many staff Ivica is responsible for, he tells us that “I have some 170 colleagues depending on the time of year, but we try to do this business with a homely, family feeling. So, I consider it to be that I work for them.

“The rooms are designed in a sophisticated Art Deco style, with all the modern touches needed for today’s travelers. They are all very welcoming and cozy, to make you feel at home. We have marble bathrooms with heated floors, the perfect place to relax and unwind.”

Sumptuous beds, stunning city views and first-class room service complete the picture. Guests can also benefit from the hotel’s exclusive Health Club, offering a range of range of therapies to de-stress, replenish and revitalize.

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Exceptional dining

“I spend lot of time testing the food in the restaurants,” Ivica tells us, an important yet not undesirable part of his role as General Manager. From ‘high society-inspired dining to modern Mediterranean chic’ the Esplanade’s award-winning restaurants are worth a booking in their own right, with Executive Chef Ana Grgić Tomić at the helm.

Considered one of Zagreb’s finest, Zinfandel’s Restaurant combines the best local ingredients with a broad Mediterranean inspiration. “Here you can see a more Mediterranean style with modern food,” says Ivica, “with local specialties like sea bass baked in sea salt, Istrian truffles or steak tartar.”

Or for ‘seductive French cuisine’ Le Bistro celebrates a wide range of seasonal local produce, and also one particularly famous dish. “We have one signature dish – actually it’s a local specialty but this recipe is exclusive to the hotel – the legendary Esplanade Štrukli,” says Ivica. “It’s a baked pastry, made from thin sheets of dough, filled with fresh cottage cheese with cream. It’s sounds simple, but it’s very tasty and people really love it.”

“We change the menu in both restaurants three or four times a year, reflecting the seasons. You’ll see a mix of international cuisine, with influences from our neighbors. We’re surrounded by Italy and Austria, and obviously close to Bosnia and Herzegovina, which has a different culinary profile.”

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A treat for guests, from sunrise to sunset

The ultimate iteration of 1920’s decadence, the Oleander Terrace at the Esplanade offers stunning views across the city, and provides the perfect setting for some enjoyable people watching. A preferred spot for elegant breakfasts, high society lunching, and music and jazz evenings with a stylish Champagne bar. “To stay in the Esplanade Hotel and have a breakfast in the morning on the Oleander Terrace is considered something special,” says Ivica.

 “And in the evening, to relax, the place to be is definitely the Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar for the signature cocktails.” Run by some of the best Croatia’s mixologists the bar offers an enticing range of cocktails dating back to the days of the 1920’s Flapper.

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The secret to exceptional service lies in the people

When staying at the Esplanade, each guest is treated as a VIP by attentive and professional staff. “To offer such exceptional service, we focus on finding the right people,” explains Ivica. “We are not necessarily focusing on hospitality experience as we wish to mold them in the Esplanade way – we look for someone with passion.

“Not only love and passion for guests and the hospitality industry, but people who have a connection with the hotel, are proud to work here and willing to do their part to justify our enduring reputation. This takes a special type of person.

“We also empower people to be brave enough to make the special service, to not be afraid to be spontaneous and try something new to satisfy our guests when required.”

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Royal guests and dignitaries

While no two days are the same when working in a hotel, some stand out as special for their own reasons. “We often host state leaders, presidents and royal family members,” says Ivica. “They’re always greeted by myself.

“One day I was waiting, with the Royal assistant, for a Queen and Prince in the lobby. They were attending a lunch at the Presidential Office and, as per protocol, timing was of the utmost importance.  As the Queen and the Prince stepped out of the elevator, we realized that the Prince and the Royal assistant were wearing the same tie. Definitely against protocol!

“There was no time for the Prince to return to the room and change. So, realizing what had happened and thinking quick I just took my tie and gave it to the to the royal assistant. I didn’t think much more of it, but when they came back to the hotel they were talking about the lunch and were saying how I saved the protocol. But it’s all in a day’s work at a hotel such as this.”

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The Esplanade Hotel Zagreb is part of the city

It is said that of Zagreb that ‘life is lived on the streets of the city itself, with public art, street food, and majestic green parks delighting locals and tourists alike in all four seasons.’ As well as being an enchanting Croatian walled city, one of the fabulous things about the capital city is that the region is lush with nature parks.

The Esplanade is perfectly placed to explore the city – just one more reason to select this iconic establishment when considering where to stay in Zagreb. Ivica tells us “it is an important part of Zagreb’s upper town.” One of Zagreb’s main attractions, the historic old town, Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is a myriad of cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and iconic landmarks like St. Mark’s Church. “Here you can feel really a special history. It’s so preserved that it’s still feels like 100 years ago.” Yet the city is credited as being young and playful at heart.

“Zagreb is a big and small city,” he continues. “Almost everything is within walking distance. So, it is very relaxing for the people to explore. There are a lot of small museums and interesting places, but nothing particular that you have to visit, that is what is so nice about it. It’s very romantic everywhere and there are a lot of coffee shops where people sit outside and watch the movie of life unfold around you.”

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A symbol of Croatia

“We’re proud to represent Zagreb to the world,” says Ivica. “But even more that we represent Croatia. There are a lot of nice hotels in this beautiful country, but there is only one hotel that everybody knows about. If you ask your taxi driver or whoever you meet which hotel is the best in in Croatia, even they have never been for themselves they will say The Esplanade. Even those not from this country.

“Every day is history, and every day is special. Each and every one of our guests are exceptional and make each day memorable. I’ve spent 31 years in the hotel, but every day I’ll see something new, I’ll never grow tired of the Esplanade.”

To experience the magic of the Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb for yourself and enjoy the ultimate Croatian vacation, take a look at our sensational Croatia & The Dalmatian Coast luxury tour.